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名庄 | JS前日发布最新波尔多评分报告:2014年份-波尔多华丽强势回归

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Bordeaux roars back to relevance (and excellence) with the 2014 vintage


作者:James Suckling詹姆斯.萨克林

翻译:仝喜喜

2014年份波尔多是我34年的职业生涯中最大的惊喜之一。盲品,参观酒庄和葡萄酒咨询公司的品鉴。在这些繁忙的不同工作活动中,今年1月的两个星期时间内我在这里一共品尝了900款葡萄酒。我是这场波尔多葡萄酒产业巨大变化的目击者。极少数葡萄酒是过度干预过的,尤其和1998-2010年间的葡萄酒相比较。过度萃取和橡木陈酿的葡萄酒时代似乎结束了。事实上,年轻一代的酿酒师正在逐步统领这个产区,这一代人不在追求“大块头肌肉男”似的新世界风格红葡萄酒。刚刚投放市场的许多2014年份风格平易近人,这意味着随着这个新年份的市场投放便可有即刻享用的精彩波尔多葡萄酒。

Bordeaux’s 2014 vintage is one of the biggest surprises of my 34-year career. In blind tastings, visits to chateaux, and trips to wine consultants’ tasting rooms, I tasted almost 900 wines over two weeks in the area in January and witnessed a near-seismic shift in Bordeaux winemaking. The days of over-extracted and over-wooded wines seem over. I found very few bottles that were overdone, especially compared to wines from 1998 to 2010. Indeed, a new generation of winemakers are taking over in the region, and they are no longer looking for “blockbuster” or New World-styled reds. This makes so many 2014s approachable on release, which means wonderful, drinkable Bordeaux right out of the gate. The best wines, though, will improve with age for decades to come. 


红葡萄酒们有着强健的以果味为主导的核心,展现着和谐而有韧性的质感和油滑的单宁。世界上没有第二个赤霞珠、美乐为主导的红葡萄酒的存在有着同样的细致和张力。干白葡萄酒展示着惊人的酸度和梦幻般的密实的口感。甜白同样是精彩的,但是照前两者相比,前者更胜一筹。“我们对我们酒庄出产的2014年份的质量感到非常吃惊,”木桐酒庄技术管理总监和酿酒师菲利普.达鲁安Philippe Dhalluin先生说到。“我从没有见过橡木桶陈酿带给葡萄酒质量的提升像今年一样显著”

The reds show harmony and finesse with solid cores of fruit and extremely polished tannins. There are no cabernet and merlot-based wines in the world with similar refinement and tension. The dry whites show an electrifying acidity with fantastic density. Sweet whites are also excellent but are not as consistent in quality as the latter. “We were surprised ourselves with the quality of the 2014s,” said Philippe Dhalluin, the managing director and winemaker of Château Mouton Rothschild, which has one of the wines of the vintage. “The maturation of the wines in the barrel really improved the quality of the wines. I have never seen such an improvement.”

The tasting room at Chateau Pétrus.帕图斯酒庄的品酒室


我不能更加赞同他说的这番话了。很多酒庄现上市成品的得分对比两年前未放入橡木桶时我给出的评分要高1-3分。这次评分有两个酒庄得到100分满分,分别是花堡Chateau Lafleur 奥松酒庄Château Ausone。四个酒庄得到了99分的高分:宝嘉龙酒庄Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou, 拉图酒庄 Château Latour, 修道院红颜容酒庄Château La Mission Haut-Brion 木桐酒庄Château Mouton Rothschild. 2014年份最佳的产区是梅多克Medoc的北部,特别是圣朱利安St.-Julien和波亚克Pauillac,圣岱斯岱夫St. Estephe,上梅多克Haut Médoc,当然还有白垩土壤丰富的圣爱美隆St. Emilion,卡斯蒂永波尔多首丘Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux和粘土丘的波美侯产区。佩萨克-雷奥良Pessac-Leognan的干白葡萄酒真是是同样精彩。

I couldn’t agree more. Many wines outperformed their barrel scores by one to three points when I tried them two years ago. I scored two wines perfect 100 points— Chateau Lafleur and Château Ausone—and four received 99 points: Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou, Château Latour, Château La Mission Haut-Brion and Château Mouton Rothschild. The best 2014s were from the northern Medoc—specifically St.-Julien, Pauillac, St. Estephe and farther north in the Haut Médoc—as well as from the chalk-rich soils of St. Emilion, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux, and the clay knoll of Pomerol. Dry whites from Pessac-Leognan were also excellent.


A legendary first growth and one of the wines of the 2014 vintage.

一个传奇一级名庄的2014年份葡萄酒


生长季有很长一段的时间潮湿寒冷,有点像那个羸弱的2013年份。转机般的阳光明媚的温暖的9月和10月(伟大的印度似的夏天)使得葡萄成熟的恰到好处。特别是赤霞珠,尤其应该归功于它恰当的收获期延后。“按照最初的的发展势头很可能是一场灾难,值得庆幸的是,最终我们仍然收获到了卓越的葡萄”一级名庄拉图酒庄的总监费德里克.英吉尔Frederic Engerer先生说道。

The growing season was cold and wet for most of the summer, and the region was bracing for another weak vintage like 2013. But warm and sunny weather in September and October (a magnificent Indian summer) gave the grapes just the right amount of ripeness. Cabernet sauvignon, in particular, thrived thanks to its later picking times. “It could have been a disaster, but we harvested fantastic grapes in the end,” said Frederic Engerer, the head of the first growth Château Latour.


2014年更吸引人的是它的价格。可以说是自2008年以来性价比最高的年份,特别使用港币、人民币和美元的交易。自2014年葡萄采摘季以来,欧元汇率对比美元汇率下跌大概18%。名庄自2015年初夏发布的期酒价格至今并无很大的价格变化。……

What makes the 2014s even more appealing is their prices. This may be the best value in Bordeaux since the 2008 vintage, especially if you’re paying in Hong Kong dollars, Renimibi or US dollars. The Euro has dropped against the US dollar since the 2014 harvest by about 18%. There has been very little movement on prices in Bordeaux since the top wines were released as en primeur during the early summer 2015. Wines like Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou or Château Léoville-Las Cases should be about $110 to 130 a bottle. First growths like Château Mouton Rothschild or Château Lafite Rothschild should be anywhere from $400 to $450 a bottle.

 

詹姆斯和他的妻子玛丽与阿里巴巴集团董事长云先生共进午餐时的合影。马云先生有波尔多葡萄酒产业,他对中国的市场充满希望。

James and his wife Marie had lunch with Jack Ma, Chairman of the Alibaba Group. He makes Bordeaux wines and sees a great future in China.


我品尝到的大部分葡萄酒的成本只是价格的一小部分。一些并没有在位居列级前列的酒庄,甚至只是波尔多大区或超级波尔多等级也做出了非常棒的酒。你可以找到来自卡斯蒂永波尔多首丘Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux,普圣达圣爱美隆Puisseguin-St.-Emilion 和弗龙萨克Fronsac这些产区的,价格只在20-40美元的相当精彩的葡萄酒。一些梅多克1855分级名庄的酒庄得分达到93-95分,价格确只在35-55美元之间。

But most of the wines I tasted were a fraction of the cost of those wines, and even lesser ranked estates from appellations as simple as just Bordeaux or Bordeaux Superior made very good wines. You can find excellent bottles between $20 to $40 from places like Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux, Puisseguin-St.-Emilion, and Fronsac. Some of the lesser growths from the 1855 Classification that scored 93 to 95 points are even in the $35 to $55 range.


如何买到这些葡萄酒是另外一个问题。不像在亚洲,这里波尔多葡萄酒贸易市场上随处可见。在我看来,北美市场对波尔多葡萄酒通常持有“昂贵,过时,不够时髦,年轻时难以享用”的想法。这样来说,美国的餐厅和零售商们拥有的波尔多产区酒单始终保持单薄状态。如果有一个机会和时间可以让这些人改变他们根深蒂固的想法,便是现在。

Finding these wines is another question. Unlike in Asia where wine trade embrace Bordeaux with abandon, it seems to me that the wine trade in North America see Bordeaux as expensive, dated, unfashionable, difficult to drink when young and so on. For that reason, restaurants and retailers in the United States often keep a slim selection. But if there were ever a time to flip those perceptions on their head, if there were ever a time to experience what real Bordeaux is all about, 


附:80款得到95/100分(含)以上酒单:

*其中黄色标注部分为贵腐甜白葡萄酒绿色标注部分为干白葡萄酒,其它为干红葡萄酒。

100/100分酒2款

花堡 Château Lafleur Pomerol 2014

欧颂 Château Ausone St.-Emilion 2014

99/100分酒4款

木桐 Château Mouton-Rothschild Pauillac 2014

修道院红颜容    Château La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc Pessac-Léognan 2014

拉图 Château Latour Pauillac 2014

宝嘉龙Château Ducru-Beaucaillou St.-Julien 2014

98/100分酒10款

爱士图尔   Château Cos-d’Estournel St.-Estèphe 2014

立富 L’If St.-Emilion 2014

拉菲 Château Lafite Rothschild Pauillac 2014

骑士 Domaine de Chevalier Pessac-Léognan Blanc 2014

滴金 Château d’Yquem Sauternes 2014

帕图斯Château Pétrus Pomerol 2014

雄狮 Château Léoville Las Cases St.-Julien 2014

帕图斯之花Château La Fleur-Pétrus Pomerol 2014

李鹏 Château Le Pin Pomerol 2014

飞卓 Château Figeac St.-Emilion 2010

朋帝卡奈   Château Pontet-Canet Pauillac 2014

97/100分酒11款

拉高斯Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste Pauillac 2014

奥比昂Château Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan 2014

黑教皇干白Château Pape Clement Pessac-Leognan Blanc 2014

老托特(老藤)Château Trottevieille St.-Emilion Très Vieilles Vignes de Trottevieille 2014

玛歌 Château Margaux Margaux 2014

克里耐教堂Château L’Église Clinet Pomerol 2014

玛歌白亭   Pavillon Blanc du Château Margaux Margaux 2014

奥比昂干白Château Haut-Brion Blanc Pessac-Léognan 2014

波尔多元素Essence Bordeaux De Dourthe 2009

卓龙 Château Trotanoy Pomerol 2014

老瑟丹Vieux-Château-Certan Pomerol 2014

玫瑰山庄Château Montrose St.-Estèphe 2014

96/100分酒25款

拉梦多La Mondotte St.-Emilion 2014

飞卓 Château Figeac St.-Emilion 2009

白马 Château Cheval-Blanc St.-Emilion 2014

史密斯拉菲干白Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte Pessac-Leognan Blanc 2014

波尔多元素Essence Bordeaux De Dourthe 2005

柏菲 Château Pavie St.-Emilion 2014

修道院红颜容Château La Mission Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan 2014

史密斯拉菲Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte Pessac-Léognan 2014

克莱特修道院La Clarte de Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan 2014

宝雅 Château Bélair-Monange St.-Emilion 2014

拉斯杜嘉Château Larcis-Ducasse St.-Emilion 2014

马利歌Château Malescot-St.-Exupery Margaux 2014

黑教皇Château Pape Clément Pessac-Léognan 2014

金钟 Château Angélus St.-Emilion 2014

菲比富泽瑞Château Péby-Faugères St.-Emilion 2014

欧松小教堂Chapelle d’Ausone St.-Emilion 2014

拉图 Château Latour à Pomerol Pomerol 2014

马克柏菲Château Pavie-Macquin St.-Emilion 2014

飞龙世家Château Calon-Ségur St.-Estèphe 2014

卡农 Château Canon St.-Emilion 2014

罗世荣Château Rocheyron St.-Emilion 2014

靓次伯Château Lynch Bages Pauillac 2014

飞卓 Château Figeac St.-Emilion 2014

老托特Château Trottevieille St.-Emilion 2014

瓦兰德鲁Château Valandraud St.-Emilion 2014

康赛隆Château La Conseillante Pomerol 2014

95/100分酒24款

教堂园Clos L’Église Pomerol 2014

爱士图尔干白    Château Cos-d’Estournel Bordeaux Blanc 2014

琉赛克Château Rieussec Sauternes 2014

列兰 Château Nenin Pomerol 2014

波尔多元素Essence Bordeaux De Dourthe 2006

芳宝 Château Magrez Fombrauge St.-Emilion 2014

马克思园Clos du Marquis St.-Julien 2014

嘉仙 Château Gazin Pomerol 2014

玛拉蒂克Château Malartic-Lagravière Pessac-Léognan Blanc 2014

卢浮宫干白Château La Louvière Pessac-Léognan Blanc 2014

鲁臣世家Château Rauzan-Ségla Margaux 2014

塞丹德美Château Certan de May Pomerol 2014

高柏丽Château Haut-Bailly Pessac-Léognan 2014

卓龙梦特Château Troplong-Mondot St.-Emilion 2014

奥比昂副牌Le Clarence de Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan 2014

美人鱼Château Giscours Margaux 2014

龙船 Château Beychevelle St.-Julien 2014

胡珊 Château Hosanna Pomerol 2014

马利 Château Sociando-Mallet Haut-Médoc 2014

花堡副牌Pensées de Lafleur Pomerol 2014

芝露 Château Guiraud Sauternes 2014

傲巴黎Château Haut-Bages-Libéral Pauillac 2014

碧尚男爵   Château Pichon-Longueville Baron Pauillac 2014

宝玛 Château Palmer Margaux 2014

迪卡斯柏菲Château Pavie-Decesse St.-Emilion 2014


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